Thursday, April 5, 2012

Step 2. Epoxy/Fiberglass



ep·ox·y/iˈpäksē/ 


Noun:
An adhesive, plastic, paint, or other material made from a class of synthetic thermosetting polymers containing epoxide groups.
  If you just started reading, go back to Step 1 and follow those steps first if you want to make a longboard. Now that the board is glued and cut, its time to epoxy and fiberglass! Make sure you are in an area that has great airflow, and does not mind drips and drops of epoxy. The bottom of the board can be painted and epoxy/fiberglassed to make it waterproof. First, spray paint or do whatever you want for designs on the bottom of the board.
The next step is relatively hard. Go buy Epoxy and epoxy hardener, also buy a sheet of fiberglass cloth (The fiberglass should look white).
The epoxy and hardener costs around $5-$10, and the fiberglass cloth will be less than $5 to cover your board, I bought these as a combo for close to $7.50, but make sure that there is enough fiberglass cloth to cover the whole board! Place the fiberglass cloth on the painted side of the board.. MAKE CERTAIN YOU HAVE THE DESIGN ON THE BOTTOM OF THE BOARD THE WAY THAT YOU WANT IT BECAUSE THERE IS NO CHANGING IT BEYOND THIS POINT. Now mix the epoxy with the hardener to the correct concentration and begin to pour the epoxy onto the fiberglass on the bottom of the board. A bit of advice is to dry it at temperatures OVER 80 degrees farenheight otherwise it will take over 2-3 days to dry! Keep stirring the epoxy throughout the project so it can not get hard. Use the scraper to evenly apply the epoxy to the board. If you want, epoxying the sides is an option, though it is extraneous. Once epoxied, sanding down the edges is optional, but advised. Again, wear long sleeve shirts, gloves, and a surgical mask, because you do not want rashes, or damaged lungs for the rest of your life. Now the board is ready to have holes drilled into it for the trucks (axles).


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6 comments:

  1. Reed, Thanks for the post... I hope you're still active on this blog.
    Question: After the epoxy has cured over the fiberglass cloth, what should the texture of the cured product be? Will be smooth and shinny or will it have the texture of the cloth? I tried this for the first time a few weeks back and after it cured you could still see and feel the weave of the cloth.
    Thanks again.

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    Replies
    1. Haha, yes. I am still very much active and have several other websites, although I hope to move this .blogspot blog onto my own top level domain soon.
      To answer your question, no, it should not have the texture of the cloth as it was, if you apply the epoxy mixture thick enough, it will immerse the cloth and the cloth will become clear. In your case, I might try another coat of epoxy, and smooth it out nicely. The only reason I wouldn't go through the extra work to do it is if you were fine with the texture, and to tell you the truth, you'll end up scratching the bottom one way or another, whether it be rocks hitting it, or you accidentally bottoming it out. Check up and follow my google plus profile here for updates on what I'm doing, and when I buy the domain:
      plus.google.com/105350684778561567720

      Let me know if you have any other questions,
      Reed.

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    2. Thanks for this post, its really helpful! When you apply the fiberglas and epoxy to the bottom of the board, will the graphics be visible? How clear will the fiberglass be?
      /Ivar

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    3. Mine turned out completely clear, though if you don't have enough of the liquid epoxy, it might end up a little more opaque and hazy.

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